Tartan belongs to Scottish culture and is not only one of Scotland’s greatest icons but also one of the world’s leading national marks of identification.
Scotland boasts a globally recognised cultural symbol—tartan. With over 30 million people of Scottish descent worldwide, including 11 million in the United States, 4.5 million in Canada, and nearly 6 million in Australia and New Zealand, tartan remains an enduring link to Scottish heritage.
There are over 5,000 tartan patterns, with around 135 new designs created annually. The variety expanded significantly in the early 19th century, evolving from a handful of clan tartans to hundreds of clan, district, and fashion tartans. Queen Victoria's admiration for Scottish culture further propelled tartan’s popularity. Today, the tartan and Highland dress industry contributes over £300 million annually to Scotland’s economy and tourism sector.
Origins of Tartan
Tartan’s exact origins remain uncertain, but early check-patterned cloths were loosely associated with Highland clans. Clan chiefs held immense power, offering protection in return for loyalty. Historical descriptions of tartan include terms like "mottled," "striped," and "sundrie coloured." The word "tartan" derives from the French "tartaine," referring to a type of checked fabric, while the Gaelic term "Breacan" means "chequered."
The traditional Highland garment, the "Philead Mhor" or belted plaid, consisted of about 12 yards of fabric wrapped around the waist, draped over the shoulder, and secured with a belt. This versatile attire also served as a blanket and head covering in bad weather.
Early tartans were simple, featuring natural dyes from local plants, roots, and berries. Over time, these regional patterns evolved into clan tartans, creating a visual identity for different groups.
Key Historical Moments in Tartan's Evolution
- 1471: King James III and his Queen purchased tartan fabric.
- 1535: James V wore tartan while hunting in the Highlands.
- 1587: Hector MacLean of Duart paid land dues with tartan cloth.
- 1692: Charles II wore tartan ribbons at his wedding.
- 1739: The Black Watch became the first Highland regiment to wear tartan uniforms.
The modern kilt emerged in the 18th century when the Philead Mhor was divided into the smaller Philead Beg (small kilt) and plaid. Around this time, regiments began adopting tartan uniforms, including the Royal Company of Archers, Scotland’s royal bodyguard.
Tartan’s Revival and Global Influence
Following the Jacobite defeat at Culloden in 1746, the British government attempted to suppress Highland culture. The Act of Proscription banned tartan, Gaelic, and bagpipes. By its repeal in 1785, tartan had nearly faded into obscurity.
However, King George IV’s visit to Scotland in 1822, orchestrated by Sir Walter Scott, revitalized tartan’s prominence. Citizens were encouraged to wear tartan, sparking a resurgence that continues today. By the 19th century, tartan transitioned from everyday wear to a ceremonial and formal attire, complete with accessories like Bonnie Prince Charlie jackets, Sgian Dubhs, sporrans, and flashes.
The introduction of chemical dyes in the 19th century created the distinction between "Modern," "Ancient," and "Weathered" tartan colour palettes. Tartan categories also diversified, including:
- Dress Tartans: Originally worn by women, featuring lighter backgrounds for formal occasions.
- Hunting Tartans: Darker hues designed for outdoor activities.
- Military Tartans: Worn by Scottish regiments for identification.
- District Tartans: Representing specific regions of Scotland.
- Corporate & Commemorative Tartans: Custom designs for businesses and events.
Tartan in Contemporary Scotland
Today, tartan continues to symbolise Scottish identity, with around 135 new tartans registered annually. Worn at weddings, Burns Night, Hogmanay, and other celebrations, tartan remains a staple of Scottish fashion. Many young Scots embrace kilts for both formal and casual wear.
Beyond clothing, tartan is widely used in home furnishings, accessories, and even space missions. It is a timeless and versatile fabric that reflects Scotland’s proud heritage and enduring influence worldwide.
Kinloch Anderson: A Legacy in Tartan
Established in 1868, Kinloch Anderson is a premier name in tartan and Highland dress. Having held Royal Warrants since 1934 and most recently attaining the Royla Warrant from HM King Charles III, the company remains at the forefront of tartan design.
The most exclusive tartan remains the Balmoral tartan, worn only by the Royal Family with His Majesty’s permission. Kinloch Anderson proudly maintains this historic pattern for royal use.
Tartan’s cultural evolution continues, bridging Scotland’s past with its vibrant present. As a fashion statement, a historical emblem, and a source of national pride, tartan truly embodies the spirit of Scotland.
The exclusive Kinloch Anderson Kilt Hire outfits are one of the following:
- Formal kilt hire outfit with Prince Charlie jacket - The Prince Charlie jacket is worn with a black tie. Made in Black Barathea with silk lapels, tails at the back and trimmed with Celtic buttons. This jacket is short and worn open together with a fastened vest (waistcoat).
- Semi Formal outfit with Argyll jacket - The Argyll jacket is less formal, shorter than a trouser jacket but not so short as the Prince Charlie. Made in Black Barathea it can be worn with a black tie or with a grey silk tie or club tie depending on the occasion. This jacket features gauntlet cuffs and Celtic buttons. It can be worn open or fastened at the top and a waistcoat is optional.
- Daywear outfit with Charcoal or Fen Green tweed jacket - The Charcoal or Fen Green tweed jacket has staghorn buttons and yet again is shorter than a trouser jacket. It is suitable for daywear, can be fastened at the top and worn with or without a waistcoat. The Charcoal tweed jacket is particularly suitable for weddings.
- Scottish Rugby Members and Supporters Club Members receive the discounted rate of £125 when hiring the Scottish Rugby Tartan hire package.
Your kilt hire package also includes:
- Black bow tie, silver cravat or silver tie
- Belt and Buckle
- Formal, semi formal or day Sporran
- Sgian Dubh
- Kilt Flashes in the tartan to match your kilt
- Black leather Ghillie Brogues or black day brogues
- Kilt Hose in cream, black or charcoal grey any of which you may keep if you wish
We will help you choose your outfit personally and make sure you have the right size. If this is the first time you will be wearing Highland Dress we will be delighted to explain every detail to you in order to ensure you feel absolutely comfortable for the experience – and the photographs!
We offer individual items for Hire, should you need just the Kilt, Kilt Jacket, Sporran or indeed any of the other items to complete your outfit, they can be hired for your special occasion or event.
Our regular full hire price is £150 for a 4 day hire. However should you just require individual items these will be priced separately as are extended hire periods.
If the tartan you want is not in our Kilt Hire range or you want to have your own kilt you can purchase a made to measure kilt in the tartan of your choice and we will provide the rest of your Kilt Hire Outfit free of charge.
Sash Hire
To complement the Men’s Highland Dress outfit Ladies can hire a Sash in the same available hire tartans. The beautiful wool Sashes come together with a lovely Celtic brooch and are once again made in our factory in Leith. Guidance is given on how to wear your beautiful Sash if you wish to conform to tradition and have never worn one before - Click here to discover the correct way to wear a sash. The standard method is to wear your Sash over the right shoulder, across the breast and secured on the shoulder with a brooch.
We are sure you will enjoy wearing your Kilt Hire Outfit and when it is returned you will be given the opportunity to buy a new Kilt Outfit less the price you paid for your hire.
If you would like more information regarding your Kilt Hire requirements please use our contact form,call us on 0131 555 1390 or visit our Edinburgh Shop.