The Art of Kiltmaking
Kiltmaking
Since 1868, Kinloch Anderson has been at the forefront of kiltmaking, setting the standard for exceptional quality and craftsmanship. Renowned worldwide, our kilts are meticulously handmade in our Leith factory by skilled artisans who have honed their craft over six generations. Unlike any other store, customers can peer through our factory window and watch their very own kilt being expertly crafted—a truly unique experience.
We believe in making kilts that last a lifetime. Our kilts are designed with extra fabric and deep pleats, allowing for future alterations and refurbishment, ensuring they can be cherished for generations. This commitment to longevity and sustainability reflects our dedication to preserving the art of traditional kiltmaking.
In 2021, the art of kiltmaking was officially classified as an endangered craft by Heritage Crafts, highlighting the rarity of true hand-stitched kilts in today's market. While most kilts are now partially or fully machine-made, Kinloch Anderson remains one of the very few companies offering a 100% hand-stitched kilt, crafted with precision and passion. Our commitment to authenticity ensures that this timeless Scottish tradition continues to thrive.
The Art
At the heart of our heritage lies the art of kiltmaking, a craft honed over 155 years by our highly skilled craftspeople. Based in our factory in Leith, our expert kiltmakers and machinists have perfected their skills through generations, ensuring every kilt is made to order with precision, tradition and exceptional care and attention to detail.
Our commitment to sustainability goes beyond words—we actively minimise waste by producing made-to-measure clothing, reducing excess stock and ensuring responsible resource use. By working with natural fibres, we uphold our dedication to eco-conscious craftsmanship, creating timeless pieces with minimal environmental impact.
Beyond kilts, our expertise extends to luxury skirt making. Over the years, we have proudly collaborated on seasonal collections for esteemed brands such as DAKS, Prada, and Aquascutum. Our highly skilled workforce is the heartbeat of our company, blending heritage craftsmanship with innovation to shape the future of sustainable fashion.
Evolution of the kilt
The modern kilt has evolved from the Philleag Mohr, a large piece of fabric measuring approximately three meters square. Historically, Highlanders used this versatile garment for warmth, protection, and even as a makeshift sleeping blanket. The fabric was wrapped around the waist, with the excess material draped over the shoulder.
Today’s kilt, known as the Philleag Beg or "little kilt," is a refined version of this traditional garment. It is worn at waist level, while the remaining fabric has evolved into the plaid, traditionally worn over the shoulder. A distinctive feature of an authentic kilt is its hem—or lack thereof. The bottom edge of the kilt utilizes the selvedge edge of the fabric, ensuring there are no loose ends. For younger wearers, however, a hem can be incorporated to accommodate growth.
Crafting a kilt requires precision and expertise, following a series of meticulous steps. The first stage, known as chalking, ensures that the tartan pattern (sett) aligns perfectly across the entire kilt. To reduce bulk at the back, excess fabric is carefully removed. Next, structural elements such as canvas and lining are added, followed by belt loops and buckles, which are positioned based on individual measurements. The waistband is then attached, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.
Once complete, each kilt undergoes a final quality check before being presented to its owner—either in our shop or via our dispatch department. Every Kinloch Anderson kilt is handcrafted in our Leith factory with unmatched attention to detail, ensuring longevity and timeless elegance.
With over 155 years of kiltmaking expertise, Kinloch Anderson remains at the forefront of traditional Scottish tailoring. Our commitment to quality ensures that every kilt we create is not just an article of clothing but a future family heirloom, designed to be cherished for generations.
"Every Kinloch Anderson kilt is a future family heirloom."
Kiltmaking today
Today a single kilt is normally made up of 8 yards or 7.4 metres (of single width cloth) and there are between 23 and 43 pleats in a standard kilt each of which is hand deep.
Kiltmaking is a highly skilled process which takes a great deal of time, between 8 and 14 hours for an accomplished kiltmaker.
Traditionally, a kilt is made using the selvedge of the cloth as the hem it therefore can only ever be shortened from the top at the waistband.
The weaving process for kilt quality cloth creates a special selvedge which does not show the mixture of threads. If however, you are still growing, a hem can be added and gradually let down over time.
One kilt will go through a number of processes within our factory, beginning with Chalking.
This is the most important part, a highly skilled role marking out the pleats in accordance with the specific sett size on the cloth and making sure the pattern (sett) matches perfectly all the way round the kilt. The pleats are then handstitched in to place.
To ensure the kilt is comfortable and not bulky the excess cloth is removed from the back of the kilt at the waist and the pleats are steam pressed into place. Stay tape is the attached to the waistband to prevent the cloth stretching.
Linings, canvas, belt loops and buckles and straps are added in accordance with the wearers size and requirements and the waistband added.
The final stage is a meticulous steam press.
All in all, it takes at least one day to make one kilt and it passes through the skilled hands of our chalker, kiltmaker, and presser and is finally checked and approved by our Production Manager.
The art of kiltmaking is personal to every person involved in the process, from the first appointment with our professional Retail Team to when your kilt is despatched out of the building winding its merry way to you – we always make it to the best of our ability.
Our experience has been gained from over 150 years of providing tailoring and kiltmaking and we pride ourselves on continuing to create beautifully made kilts to last for generations.
